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On China's Pre-Packaged Tourism by Tom Carter

On China's Pre-Packaged Tourism by Tom Carterprovincial capital city of Xi'an, home of
terracotta warriors, waiting indefinitely for
"What could possibly compel them to dotrain tickets back to Beijing, often
something  so…  wrong?"resulting in missed return flights home. The
blame for this calamity lies with the tour
This was the question posed by a group ofgroup companies themselves, who purchase
expats sitting around a youth hostel inlarge blocks of tickets (often in advance
scenic Huangshan Mountain, China's belovedthrough personal connection with train
mountain range in Anhui Province, discussingstation officials), leaving nary a hard seat
the legions of tourists who had disruptedavailable  for  the  independent  traveler.
their  72-peak  excursion.
And what of the more noticeable effects of
As the foreign travelers retell it, what wasthose traveling en masse to China's
supposed to have been a heavenly respitewonderland attractions. To be sure,
turned into an out-and-out circus repleteJiuzhaigou National Park in Sichuan is a site
with megaphones, flags and the congestion ofnot to be missed, where emerald lakes
untold numbers of tourists with thereflecting a vertical alpine forest blazing
inopportune desire to see the same thing atin the autumn with crimson and gold make this
the  same  time.protected region the country's premier travel
destination.
"We could barely walk up the narrow steps
because there were too many tour groups, weUnfortunately, what visitors will dauntingly
couldn't see the view past their florescentmeet with at the park's entrance is a concert
hats and we couldn't even hear the birdsof tour buses piercing the surroundings with
because of all the noise," complained thedeafening blasts of their horns and vomiting
foreign  travelers.black exhaust (contributing to Jiuzhaigou's
own environmental downfall), while streams of
Such a scene is of course commonplace inred and yellow hat-wearing, litter-tossing
China, where 1.3 billion people must contendtourists noisily follow a flag-waving guide
with both limited time and space during theshouting  instructions  into  a  loudspeaker.
country's few and far between national
holidays.When pressed for an elucidation of the social
and ecological consequences of collective
But where Western travelers, not unlike theirtraveling, a local tour operator rejoins
world-exploring forefathers, pride themselvesfiscally, "I provide guaranteed
on independence, requiring little more than atransportation, accommodations and discounted
backpack and a point in the right directionentrance tickets, all in one package. Without
to circumnavigate exotic new countries, thetour group companies like mine, traveling in
historically communal Chinese tend to haveChina  would  be  impossible!"
quite  a  different  perspective  on  travel.
To the foreign observer, such logic is the
"We like to go where everybody goes," saidbane of China's heritage, with intrusive tour
one Chinese tourist when prompted to explaingroups appreciating neither the splendor nor
the disorder of collective travel. "If therehistory of the site but rather in a seeming
are no crowds it means it's not a good placerush to take a snapshot in front of a
to  visit."character-engraved stone before dashing back
on  their  buses  to  the  next  site.
An alternative explanation of the chaos that
orbits China's favorite attractions is theBut for the Chinese, the constipation and the
government's authoritative instruction ofurgency are indicative of a culture
where and when the populace may travel,categorically limited in both time and space,
preferring brief, intensive bursts during thewhere itinerary replaces independence and
national  holidays rather than a steady flow.processed convenience is preferred over
pleasure.
This quarterly policy may make for impressive
economic reports (though Xinhua News Agency"The national holidays are my only chance to
reports a growing disfavor with thespend with my family and see my country,"
eight-year-old Golden Week holiday system),exclaims a Chinese businessman from Beijing
but it creates a havoc that is all ofon his way to the Yunnan old town of Lijiang,
dissuading foreigners from extensive travelChina's third most popular holiday
in  China.destination. "With a tour group, I don't have
to plan, I don't have to worry, I don't have
Indeed, every summer scores of Westernto think.
backpackers are stranded in Shaanxi's



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